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This adire eleko cloth, indigo-dyed by the starch-resist technique (hand-painted or stenciled, often with a feather as the "brush"), is at least 35 years old; but it has been in storage for that time and is just as it came from the market in Ibadan where it was acquired in the early 1970s. As shown in the photos, there are many different designs incorporated into the overall pattern, which is called Ibadan dun, the Yoruba words meaning, "Ibadan is sweet (or pleasant)". This piece displays the classic four rows of seven large squares or rectangles on each single piece. Most adire is intended for wearing, but this is a single piece; the wrapper would usually be two of these single cuts sewn together. Note the wide variety of different designs present in this example (I count 22 different designs, which is very unusual.) The pillars of Mapo Hall appear twice, and the six spoons appear three times. Other designs include "wire" and various birds, along with designs that I cannot name. This is a single piece of exceptionally fine quality, as noted by the six spoons. ("One way of assessing the quality of the cloth is by counting the number of spoons. Top quality cloths have five spoons, the average have four and the least good, three ('for the tourists', as one informant mentioned). The less good cloths are done quickly sometimes copying a better one, and some of the detail is lost." from Adire Cloth in Nigeria by Jane Barbour and Doig Simmonds). The cloth measures 33" by 85" and has no hems. This piece is also "signed" by the artist, as seen in the border and the last photograph. Handmade adire is seldom produced anymore, as it involves a tremendous amount of labor; and old adire like this is rare today. The cloth was originally made to be used as ordinary everyday attire, and was discarded when it wore out. What remains of fine old adire now resides mostly in museums or private collections. Please be aware that the natural indigo dyes are NOT colorfast, so care must be taken. (For more information and comparisons, see "www.adireafricantextiles.com", which has examples on sale for $500 or more.)
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