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Farfalla Design Studio Vintage 40s DRESSMAKING~ CLOTHING DESIGN~ Home Décor -EVERYTHING ~ Sewing Book One of the Most Comprehensive & Informative Sewing books EVER. This Vintage 1940’s Jewel is a MUST HAVE! Filled with over 700 explanatory pictures with a reference index of over 2000 fabulous items to make and create ******** Description The Complete Book of Sewing By Constance Talbot Copyright 1943- Revised 1949 The Greystone Press~ New York 13, N.Y. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 45 Chapters Include 100’s of illustrations on how to make and guzzy-up those fabulous forties styles. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Your “One Stop†Sewing Book Learn how to Master every basic stitch & Construction Detail~ Instructions to make Fabulous 1940’s style Suits, Dresses, Jackets, Evening Wear, Negligees ~ Practical Mending ~ Easy Instructions to make your own patterns for Aprons, Hand Bags , Slippers, Hats and much more are included~ The Art of Tailoring~ Dressmakers Tricks for Restyling - Remodeling - Remaking Clothing ~THE NEEDLECRAFTS - Embroidery, Quilting & Smocking~ Home ~ Children’s Clothing~ Gifts to Make ~ Décor Sewing for the 1940’s Home & HUNDREDS of other things! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ About the Author Constance Talbot was for over 10 years Editor of Butterick Fashions. She has personally lectured on sewing to over 20 million women from coast to coast. No one else in America could have prepared so practical and valuable guide as this book Ms. Talbot, America's leading sewing expert, takes apart every sewing & design problem, walks with you step-by-step with easy-to-follow, illustrated instructions to achieve sewing success ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter II – How to choose the right fabrics …………………………..20 Correlating fabric to style and pattern. Choosing the best type of pattern for printed, novelty, smooth surface, luxury, staple and utility fabrics. What are cold weather, warm weather coat fabrics? Fabrics best suited for underwear, bathrobes, utility or luxury underwear. Lining fabrics. Interlinings and their uses. How to choose the right fabric for a pattern with ruffles, pleats, darts, or gathers. Important facts about fabrics – the fibers, yarns and weaves that go into them, What is color fastness? What cause shrinkage? How to shrink fabric. New fabric finishes – crease-resisting, permanent stiffening, sanforizing and sanitary finishes. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1940’s Fashion Details You find a wealth of retro fashion tips that are even better than when they first appeared a generation ago! This fashionable young lady in a simple black dress (In the above photo) . Wears a Dickie with a cowled collar of leopard print fabric tucked into the neckline with the sleeves ending in exaggerated fold & back cuffs of the same print. A clever addition was a large couture flower pinned to the shoulder, made from the same leopard fabric. Just these little additions make the outfit oh so chic and that you will find how to make in this book ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter VII – Gathers, Ruffles, and Headings ……………………….55 Hand and machine gatherings, hand shirring. How to set gathers – to shape and edge, to control fullness. How to estimate fullness. How to make headings, ruffles, casings, corners in lace and lace joinings, Machine-embroidered insertions and edgings, Passementeries. Chapter I – Choosing the right clothes ………………………………..13 Simple rules for the selection of clothes. What is basic style? Choosing colors best suited to skin tones, color of hair and eyes to personality to figure. Emphasizing good points. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Gathers are used to give fullness to garments or to shape and edge to a curve. Ruffles add gaiety to dresses and accessories" ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XXIV – Points to remember about afternoon dresses and formals ……….157 The lines to watch for in girls’ dresses, misses’ dresses. The basic dress, children’s afternoon dresses. How to make three evening waist for one skirt; one long and one short skirt for one waist, evening jackets, matrons’ formals, hostess gowns, children’s party dresses. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Party Dresses and Formals "The street-length dress in black or a becoming color can be made in simple or deceptively subtle styles. The two look very much alike to the untrained eye, and many home sewers confuse them. When you choose a pattern for an afternoon dress, keep in mind that there are three different kinds: (1) the simple soft dress, easy to make; (2) the soft trimmed dress, easy to make; and (3) the subtle sophisticated dress which requires knowledge and painstaking detail. Beginners should not attempt the subtle dress, but they can make a simple dress very successfully. As you look over patterns. Watch for the placing of the lines. In easy-to-make models, softness is introduced on the shoulders, below the yokes in skirt and waist---in either gathers or tucks." (Excerpt)"Dresses which depend upon subtle line and details must be finished so that no finishing line shows---no outside stitching. The handwork makes these dresses very expensive to buy ready-made. (Excerpt) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter VI – Darts, Tucks, and Pleats ……………………………….49 Fitting darts, plain darts. Darts to hold fullness and to give fullness. How to measure for tucks. Hand and machine tucks. Straight, side, box, inverted, accordion and kick pleats. Contrasting color in pleats. How to insert godets. CHAPTER XXVII- HOW TO MAKE COATS & JACKETS…..170 Rules for identifying an easy to make coat. Selecting the pattern, every step in making the coat, tailored stitches, interfacing, sleeves, pocket s, lining, and interlining. Dressmakers, casual, evening, tailored classics and children’s reversible coats. Adjusting coats for growth,. Working in fur. How to make shoulder pads for coats. Taped edges. French, arrowhead and crowsfoot tacks. Chapter IV – The A B C’s OF Stitches – Basic instructions in sewing ……..37 Eleven different fundamental stitches and their uses for hand and machine sewing such as blind hemming, slip-stitch, running stitch, gathering stitches; learning to stitch by machine. Chapter V – Sews ………………….41 Seam allowances, seams for straight and bias edges, for transparent, heavy and napped fabrics. How to ease in fullness, Joined seams, welt seams, covered seams, taped and bound seams. French seams, decorative seams, upholsters’ seams. How to turn corners in a seam. Square corners. Chapter IX – Embroidery and Applique …………………………………..70 Embroidery stitches, chain, couching, satin. Lazy-daisy, feather, blanket, cross stitch, bullion and seek stitch. Beading. Eyelets, scallops, appliqué, quilting, trapunto quilting, smocking, honey-comb, seed, diamond and cable smocking. Bar. French criss-cross, ribbon and machine fagoting. Hemstitching. Tassels, pom-poms and frimge. Designs to trace. Chapter XXIX – Teaching your daughter to sew ………………………….189 Chapter XXII – Points to remember about utility clothes and tailored classics…146 Housedresses, protective, utility and decorative aprons. Service uniforms and factory workers clothes. Shirt-waist dresses, men’s and boys’ and shorts, children’s sailor suits. Chapter XXIII – Points to remember about everyday and sport clothes …………151 Button-front, dickey-from, jumper and jacket dresses. Separate skirts, jumpers and waistcoats, casual jackets, all types of blouses. Children’s sport clothes. Chapter XXV – Points to remember about cotton garments ………162 Every-day cottons, cotton suits, cotton evening dresses and children’s clothes. Chapter XXVI – Maternity dresses and infants’ wear ……………….166 Conservative, casual and youthful maternity dresses. Maternity dress without a pattern. Clothes for the infant, toddler and young child. Included are the instructions to easily make patterns for these Fab Retro Items HATS EVENING BAG PEPLUM PATTERN FOR BRA & PANTIES BEDROOM SLIPPERS SLIP ON BLOUSE MUFF BAG DOGGY COAT FASHION BELTS HOODS BATHROBE Chapter XXX – Accessories and Gifts ……………………………………..194 Seasonal fashion chart. How to cover different hats. How to make zipper, evening and muff bags-ribbon, buckle, fringe and peasant belts. How to make hoods. How to make aprons, bedroom slippers Chapter XIX – Fasteners – from buttons to zippers ………………………127 Closings for tailored clothes, for decorative effects. How to sew in all types of sewing fasteners, classic, covered, shank-stem, linked buttons and buttons held with fabric. How to make buttonholes, tailored buttonholes – bound buttonholes. How to make buttonhole loops – how to apply loop fastenings. How to make corded tubing loops, cord motifs and bow-tie closings. How to insert zippers, in a seam, in a faced edge, under a band, in a fly pocket. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Those Fashionable Frogs ! Frogs and Decorative Cord Fastenings These gorgeous fastenings can be made at home very easily. Women to whom a belted garment is not becoming should learn to make interesting frog closings in striking designs to give variety to the beltline of a coat or dress. included are the easy directions on making those decorative frog fasteners ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XX – Time Saving Details and Pockets ………………………….134 Smooth finishing touches – squared corners, curved edges. How to eliminate bulk in a seam-line, to turn a seam, to cut away facing, to prepare collar facings, to face collars; to add casings; to make tie and scarf ends, to attach bands and straps. How to make tied and stiffened bows. How to make lingerie straps, slits for ribbons, belt straps. How to make patch, bound, welt and flap pockets. Chapter XII The science of cutting ………………………………………..90 Preparations and cutting routine. What the pattern markings mean. How to transfer them. How to cut plaids, figured materials, large checks, up and down prints, stripes. Patterns for Cutting Gilets, Blouses, Panties and Brassieres. Chapter XXVIII – Underwear for all the family …………………………183 Utility underwear for the whole family, including bathrobes and sleeping garments. Luxury underwear for women and girls. Wearability. Slips, nightgowns, negligees, hostess gowns, housecoats. How to make a bath-robe from a blanket. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Repairing Girdles"At the first sign of a rip or tear, mend your girdle promptly. Catch the end of each rubber thread and tie it with cotton thread so it will hold. Then darn these threads down into the seam or whatever part of the girdle ripped. Be careful not to put a needle through the rubber threads. If the tear is on a seam, rebind it with tape or a satin ribbon after mending. If the garter rips on a seam, use an overcasting stitch; it holds better and has some give." ***** Just one of the invaluable tips you will in regards to repairing, restoring & remodeling Vintage garments ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XXI – Trimmings ……………………………………………………141 How to share edges – make self-fabric cords. How to add variety with quilting, what to quilt. Scallops, saddle stitching, fringe, and inserted bandings, braiding. Chapter XIII – How to make fitting Alterations …………….……….100 How to adjust side seams, wide or narrow shoulders. How to fit sleeves. How to adjust necklines, collars waistlines and hips. Chapter X – Time saving measurement routines ………………………..77 Where to take bustline, waistline and hip measurements. Charts and explanations. Six steps to successful clothes. Time-saving feature in making your dress. Step by step routine, from laying out the pattern to the completed garment. Chapter XI – How to alter a pattern …………………………………………83 How to alter patterns, make patterns longer, shorter, narrower, and wider. Adjusting sleeves, and shoulders, for sloping, rounded, wide, narrow and square shoulders. Large and small arms. Large abdomens and hips – flat and full busts. Sway backs. Chapter XVI – Sleeves ………………………………………………….116 How to cut, construct and pin sleeves and armholes. Puffed, raglan, tailored sleeves. How, when and where to join shoulder seams. When are armholes bound. What kind of shoulder pads to use, what type of fabrics to use. How to shrink and press sleeves. Cuff finishes. Finishes for gathered sleeves, fitted sleeves. The Fine Art Of Mending You will be hard pressed to find the details given in regards to mending and care of clothes in any “Modern Sewing Book†as you will find here. An invaluable resource if you are a Vintage clothing collector, retailer, costumer or just a lover of retro fashions Chapter XXXII – The fine art of mending ……….213 Inserted, overlaid, woven-in pasted and decorative patches. Mending cigarette burns, ragged and long tears, machine mending, invisible darning. Mending sweaters and liners. Chapter XXXI – The care of clothes ………..205 Cleaning and quick-stitch mending. Professional pressing routine. Chart of tested methods for removing spots. What to look for on labels when you buy. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Most of us are familiar with Dickies and this book illustrates many innovative styles. A Dickie looks like someone cut the top off a blouse . They have collars and are worn around the neck with the extra fabric tucked down inside the garment. According to the book they came in two categories "those that button in front and those that button behind". Dickies were a favorite because they could fit into any open neckline. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XV – Becoming Necklines ………………………………….104 Classic, corded and revere neck lines. Stitched, overlaid transparent, decorative and detachable yokes. Jabots and scarves. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Detachable yokes are sort of like decorative bibs. They tied or buttoned to the garment and often were decorated with tiny tucks or rows of lace. One lovely suggestion was to make a detachable yoke out of transparent crisp fabric which sounded ever so feminine! The edges of the yokes could be scalloped for even greater detail. Yokes were worn on the outside of the dress. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ An unusual & unique item featured is called a Plastron. The plastron was similar to a yoke but larger and came down to the waist where it was held firm with a wide sash, tie or belt. It too was worn outside the dress. The suggested fabrics for plastrons were pique, linen or lace and sheer metallic. Festive, printed rayon's and luxurious satins were also a possibility. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XXXIII – Restyling – Remodeling – Remaking ………219 Altering skirts… Concealing worn spots... Making new dresses from old... Adjusting tight dresses, torn sleeves, new sleeve ideas... Uses for old coats… How to shorten sleeves and hems of coats... Worn pockets, buttonholes, collars, and coat linings…. How to salvage outworn cotton dresses and shirts, men’s and boys’ shirts…. Outworn lingerie…. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ UNBELIEVABLY GREAT chapter on remaking/remodeling clothes in your wardrobe A treasure trove of information, techniques & tips for A Collector, retailer, costumer or anyone that loves vintage clothing ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Home Décor Section 70 pages filled with clear and concise instructions & Illustration to guide you along every step of the way. Curtains…Lampshades….Home décor fabrics 101… Upholstery…Slipcovers…Sewing Instructions…Bedspreads…Fabric Shades…. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XLII – Covering and re-covering lampshades ……………….286 Parchment, paper and fabric shades. How to recover and make gathered and stretched shades. Chapter XXXVII – Bedspreads, cough covers, and Dressing-table skirts ….247 Cutting bedspreads, including circular, flounce, scalloped and organdy bedspreads. Pillow covering. Informal. Tailored, upholstered, pleated, and ruffed couch and day bed covers. Skirts for dressing tables. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Old School Hollywood Glamour Every girl needs an ultra glamorous dressing table (Oh what fun!) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chapter XXXIX – How to make curtains ……………………………………263 Cutting, seaming and pressing curtains. How to make ruffled tie-backs, French pleated and glass curtains, valances; kitchen and Dutch curtains. Chapter XXXVIII – Curtain rods to suit the curtains ………………….255 How to get the same effect with one curtain rod instead of three. Charts and examples for draw curtains, group windows, valance boards, problem windows, swinging and casement windows. Window proportions, vestibules, sun porches. Chapter XL – How to make formal draperies ……………………………..272 Unlined, lined, interlined draperies and portieres. How to make side hems, stiffening top hems, pipe-organ pleats, French and box pleats, formal, draped, cascade, valances and tie-backs. Chapter XXXVI – Slipcovers ………………………………………………..240 Choosing fabric. Order of procedure. How to cut, pin, baste, and sew easy-to-make upholstery, petticoat, pleated and ruffled slipcovers for chairs and sofas. Making a slipcover pattern. Important details. Applying welting. Slipcover skirts. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ What a Special Addition To Your Vintage Fashion/Sewing Collection! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Condition & Description The Complete Book of Sewing By Constance Talbot Copyright 1943-Revised 1949 The Greystone Press~ New York , N.Y. Hard cover book measures 7" x 9 1/2" with 319 pages, has original owners name written neatly in the facing page, corners very slightly bumped, front facing a wee bit rubbed, some toning to paper which is natural due to age, BUT over-all the condition is GREAT! clean, crisp pages , nice tight binding, seems like was barely read or used, a sweet little keeper! Shipping *All items are shipped within 1-3 days from receiving payment. All books carefully and securely wrapped for shipping and posted directly from the post office to assure a prompt delivery. All books purchases include free delivery confirmation for domestic purchases which allows you to track your order via the USPS website *Buyer to pay choice of Priority Mail shipping or Media Mail shipping for books. Media Mail is most economical , but can be slow, usually taking 7-10 days to arrive after shipping or Priority Mail is much quicker only 2-3 days per delivery. I gladly combine shipping for all items purchased within 7 days. Insurance *Insurance is optional but recommended. Once your package is given to USPS we are no longer responsible or liable for any items lost or damaged in transit. Payment * I accept payment only through Pay Pal, which accepts your personal check, all major credit and debit cards. Payment is due within 7 days from auction end through Pay Pal Return Policy *All items listed are carefully inspected and all visible flaws noted. 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